In November 2023, the National Park Service and the United States Forest Service released a proposal that would ban the installation of fixed climbing anchors in federally protected wilderness areas. The public can comment on proposed policies until Jan. 30, 2024.
Any permanent equipment that climbers use during a climb is known as a fixed anchor. This includes pistons, ice screws and, most commonly, fixed bolts. These bolts are placed into a hole drilled in a rock wall. In newly released documents, both the NPS and USFS consider fixed anchors to be installations. Installations, according to Section 4C of the Wilderness Act, are prohibited unless approved by the area’s land management.
Fixed anchors are largely used in climbing to ensure the safety of the climbers. Many outdoor enthusiasts hold major reservations about these policies. Without the permanent anchors used on many popular climbing routes, adventurers would be at greater risk of danger.
American Mountain Guides Association Executive Director Matt Wade released a statement in which he said, “Climbing guides rely upon fixed climbing anchors to provide safety-oriented, high-quality climbing experiences for the public at climbing destinations around the country.”
Federal land that falls under the protection of the Wilderness Act must fit certain criteria regarding its size, lack of human imprint and geological or cultural value. An area in southern Utah that is federally protected and considered wilderness is Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument. While there are few fixed anchors in this area currently, any new installations or pre-existing replacements would be required to go through a minimum requirement analysis before being approved.
Section 4D (5) of the Wilderness Act states that special provisions may be permitted within designated wilderness land if its management considers the installation “necessary for activities which are proper for realizing the recreational or other wilderness purposes of the areas.”
A majority of the land in Utah is owned and managed by the federal government. This is just one policy of many that may affect how T-Bird Nation recreationally uses its own backyard. Before this month comes to an end, readers can submit their thoughts on this issue to the NPS and USFS.
Author: Heather Turner
Photo courtesy of Lily Brunson
Editor: Lily Brunson
outdoors@suunews.net